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In fair Verona, we lay our scene…
What better place to spend the Easter holiday than in Italy! Because my host school for study abroad is in Bavaria, a very Catholic region of Germany, we got Thursday through Tuesday of the Easter weekend off. I don’t have classes on Thursday or Friday anyway, but I didn’t even have this many days off when I was going to Catholic school! My mom flew in to spend the week with me and have a relaxing weekend. We decided on Verona, Italy as our destination for five days of pasta, pizza, and pasqual-ity, as it is only a quick four hour train ride from Munich and offered much warmer weather.
My mom had barely touched down in Munich before we were on a train headed to Verona. After a quick four-ish hours, we traded views of the lush green German country side and stunning Austrian Alps for scenes of rustic Italian vineyards and villas. Verona is rich with culture. Shakespeare has two plays set here in fair Verona; “The Gentlemen from Verona,” of course, and the ever classic, “Romeo and Juliet.” I was excited to experience all the city had to offer, especially on Easter weekend. We checked into the Hotel Indigo Verona, a beautiful boutique-ish hotel featuring carefully curated decorations inspired by Verona’s rich art scene.
After quickly freshening up, we grabbed a quick slice of pizza, real Italian pizza! Even though it was just from the first place we could find for take away, it was still so unbelievably good. We then headed to our activity for the night, a concert of opera songs complete with a glass of prosecco. It was incredible, just so perfect for the cultured vibe of Verona. We finished the night off with a night cap at the hotel bar. I had one of their signature cocktails, called the Ethiopian Princess, which was an ode to Italy’s historical connection to Ethiopia and the opera, “Aida.” I always enjoy trying the unique drinks specialized for the destination and this one did not disappoint.
Our first full day in Italy was spent in Sirmione, located about an hour outside of Verona on Lake Garda and home to the Castello Scligero di Sirmione. After a bit of a stressful bus ride (let’s just say I’ve never thought German was an angry sounding language but hell hath no furry like an angry Italian bus driver who’s vehicle only takes cash payments), we arrived at the 13th century fortification and the incredibly blue waters of Italy’s largest lake. The water was absolutely incredible, I couldn’t imagine this mountain lake would present such a rich, teal color, especially on a rather overcast day. We toured the castle then enjoyed lunch, and an Aperol Spritz outside by the water. After a quick gelato, we went to find our bus back to Verona so we could make it back to the city in time for our evening pasta and tiramisu cooking class.
Luckily, we had given ourselves extra time for our return journey because we waited for over an hour for our bus headed to Verona. Each bus that passed kept saying that the next bus coming would be the one we needed…for over an hour. After at least six different “correct” buses, we finally squeezed our way on board the right bus, shoving through dozens of anxious tourists. But! We made in on board and in a seat to finally relax for the picturesque journey back.
After a quick change, we walked to the venue for our cooking class. We were in Italy, of course we had to learn how to make some of their most iconic dishes! That nights menu consisted of learning how to make tiramisu and pasta noodles from scratch. I got to soak the ladyfingers in coffee for the tiramisu and we each made our our noodles for the main course. I absolutely hate having my hands covered in pasta dough as we mixed the flour and eggs together for the noodles, but the end result was pretty good. We enjoyed fettuccine style noodles in a red sauce and ricotta and spinach ravioli in a sage butter sauce paired with Italian wine and of course, the tiramisu.
Then it was Easter! We were sure that Easter Sunday Mass, in Italy, at the city’s cathedral was sure to be packed so we were determined to make it to the church early for this amazing experience. Well, maybe we flew a little too close to the sun because we arrived as the previous Mass was still taking place. Better too early than too late I suppose! The church was, obviously, breath taking because what else would you expect from an Italian cathedral. The cherry on top was the choir, who’s voices filled the arches of 900 year old structure, as the procession of half a dozen priests and even more altar servers began to celebrate the Mass.
After Mass, we walked just across the street for a nice Easter brunch. I had a glass of wine and the most pillowy soft gnocchi you can imagine. The rest of the day was spent relaxing; a nap, more pasta, gelato of course, and a walk around Verona’s downtown.
Monday morning, we braved the Verona bus system again and started a Monday morning in the best way possible, with a wine tasting. We journeyed out into the Italian country side, and despite a 20 minute walk along the side of the road (calling it the side of the road is a little too generous, we were practically walking on the road oops), we arrived at Cantine Montresor. My mom and I were the only two on the experience, probably because it was 10 am on a Monday morning but it was nice to have our own private tour. We learned about the history of Montresor’s signature wine, Amarone, and got to enjoy some with cheese, bread, and cherry jam.
On our way back to Verona, on this Easter Monday morning in Italy, we learned the unfortunate news that Pope Francis had died that day in Rome. As if it wasn’t classic enough to be in Italy for Easter, being in Italy for Easter when the Pope dies is kind of crazy. Now, this is kind of becoming a pattern for me. In 2019, I was in France when Notre Dame caught on fire and here I was again in Italy when the Pope died. I wasn’t in Rome or Paris when these events happened, but it is a little odd and I’m hoping to not let this streak of bad luck become too much of a pattern.
Once back in Verona, we took a little time exploring more of the city. We started at the Verona arena which was built in the year 45. Yes, the year 45. Four Five. Forty Five. My American brain has a little bit of trouble comprehending that, especially when we learned that the Verona arena is both bigger and older than the Colosseum in Rome. Then, we made it up across the Adige river and up a hill to Castel San Pietro for breath taking views of the whole city and surrounding country side, complete with tall cypress trees before returning to the main city of Verona. We strolled around this part of the city, seeing the statue dedicated to Dante Aligheri who spent time in Verona and visiting the market booths in the Piazza della Erbe. I got a great deal on a blue tote bag made from real Italian leather, a perfect every day souvenir from our trip, then saw the same market booth get robbed as we ate dinner across the piazza. I also purchased a copy of Romeo and Juliet written in both English and Italian, a fitting piece celebrating the two lovers from fair Verona. All in an Italian day, I guess. We also visited the Palazzo Maffei while we were there, an old royal residence turned art museum with rooftop views of the plaza below.
Our last morning in Verona, we enjoyed a nice breakfast outside with a sunny view of the arena and surrounding plaza. I had one last Italian coffee and even read a little as the warm sun rested on us. We tried to see Juliet’s Balcony, but the line of visitors was simply not worth the wait for this tourist trap. We spent the rest of our day before our afternoon train departure exploring Castelvecchio which houses artifacts which are over 1000 years old and currently hosts an exhibit on World War II’s effect on Verona. Soon, it was time to head back to the train station and back to real life in Munich.
Verona was the perfect destination to spend my Easter break. There was, and still is, so much to see and experience in this little city. I’m glad my first time in Italy was not in Rome, as I would have been totally overwhelmed there! Arrivederci, Italy and Buona Pasqua!
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